MAJOR FUNDING FOR "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" IS PROVIDED BY... [THUNDER] [CAR HORN HONKING] WHEN THE UNEXPECTED HAPPENS, STATE FARM HAS THE TOOLS TO GET YOU TO A BETTER STATE.

PROUD SPONSOR OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

HEY.

WELCOME BACK TO "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

I'M ROY UNDERHILL.

I AM VERY GLAD YOU CAN BE WITH ME AGAIN TODAY BECAUSE OUR LESSON TODAY COMES NOT FROM SHAKESPEARE, NO, NOT FROM NEWTON, NO.

OUR LESSON TODAY ON OUR GERMAN SCHOOLMASTER'S DESK IS FROM THE BOOK OF WOOD.

WE'RE GOING TO SEE HOW TO FINISH OUR STANDING DESK, OUR PENNSYLVANIA SCHOOLMASTER'S DESK, WORKING ON THIS UPPER PART, THIS WRITING PART.

WE'LL SEE HOW TO DO THIS WONDERFUL FRAME TECHNIQUE THAT CLAMPS THE WOOD, HOLDS IT FLAT, BUT ALSO LETS US GET A WIDER SURFACE, OUT OF A NARROWER BOARD.

LET ME SHOW YOU WHAT WE DID LAST TIME.

I'LL JUST TAKE A PEEK AT IT.

WE MADE THE FRAME FOR THIS.

SO THIS STANDS ON A STAND.

IT'S JUST A STANDARD TABLE DOWN HERE, JUST LEGS.

I'VE STILL GOT THE PEGS SET IN THERE.

A LITTLE BIT OF MOLDING TO SEPARATE IT FROM THE DOVETAILED BODY, AND NOW WE'RE GOING TO DO THIS WONDERFUL UPPER PART WITH THE MITERED CORNERS AND THE CAPTIVE BOARD.

SO I'LL TAKE THIS GUY ON OVER, AND WE'LL TAKE A LOOK AT HOW IT'S DONE.

IT'S SUCH A COOL THING AND VERY, VERY USEFUL.

THIS WILL BE A GOOD THING TO DO.

IT HAS A FRAME AROUND IT, OBVIOUSLY.

THAT'S WHAT IT IS.

IT'S BRACKETED.

BUT I'LL SHOW YOU THE SIDES HERE.

THEY ARE EASY TO GET OFF.

THEY ARE HELD IN PLACE WITH GROOVES WITH SPLINES.

DO YOU SEE HOW WE HAVE A GROOVE AND A SPLINE IN THERE?

SO HERE'S THE SPLINE.

THERE'S A GROOVE IN BOTH PIECE.

AND EVEN THE END GRAIN DOWN HERE, YOU CAN SEE THAT HAS A SPLINE THAT GOES INTO A POCKET IN BOTH PIECES.

SO THE WHOLE THING IS HELD TOGETHER AND ALIGNED.

NOW, THE ADVANTAGE WITH THIS TECHNIQUE IS THAT WE CAN ACTUALLY USE A THINNER BOARD HERE AND A THICKER BOARD HERE AND JUST HAVE A LITTLE HOLLOW UNDERNEATH.

BUT EVEN MORE SO THAN THAT-- I'LL PUT THAT TOGETHER LATER.

EVEN MORE SO THAN THAT IS THAT WE CAN TAKE A NARROW BOARD.

SAY I HAVE A 10-INCH BOARD, BUT I NEED TO COVER A... WHAT?

15-INCH SURFACE.

SO I HAVE A 10-INCH BOARD.

I PUT A 2-1/2-INCH AND A 2-1/2-INCH ON THE OTHER SIDE WITH THAT SPLINE SO I DON'T LOSE ANY AND 2 1/2 INCHES ON THE END.

WHAT A GREAT THING.

NOW, IT HOLDS THIS IN FROM WARPING, BECAUSE WE'VE GOT A BRACKET, A CLAMP...BREAD-BOARDED.

IT HAS LOTS OF NAMES.

IT'S GREAT.

BUT YOU CAN SEE THOSE WONDERFUL TENONS GOING DOWN INTO THE POCKET HERE.

SO WE'VE GOT 3 TENONS-- LUCIANO, PLACIDO, AND THE OTHER GUY HERE.

AND WE NEED A MORTISE FOR THIS ONE.

SO WE'LL SEE HOW TO DO THAT IN JUST A MINUTE.

ALL RIGHT.

SO, LET'S TAKE THESE NOW.

WE'RE GONNA START PLOWING.

THE WAY WE DO IS START PLOWING.

ORDER OF WORK IS IMPORTANT.

WHAT DO WE DO FIRST?

THAT'S WHAT'S IMPORTANT.

THE GROOVES THAT GO DOWN THE SIDES FOR THE SPLINES-- LET ME SHOW YOU HERE.

UH, THE GROOVES FOR THE SPLINES GO FIRST.

NOW WHY?

BECAUSE THEY TAKE AWAY PART OF THE TENON THERE.

DO YOU SEE HOW THAT GROOVE GOING DOWN THERE HAS REMOVED PART OF A TENON.

SO WE'VE LOST SOME OF THE TENON BECAUSE OF THAT GROOVE PLOWED IN THERE.

NOW, IF WE WENT AHEAD AND MADE THE TENON AND THEN DID THE BRACKETS AND THEN PLOWED THE GROOVE, SUDDENLY WE'D HAVE THIS BIG GAP.

SO WE DO THE GROOVE FIRST, AND THAT TAKES AWAY PART OF THE TENON WITHOUT ANY PROBLEM.

NOW, I'VE ALREADY GROOVED THE BIG PLANK.

I'M JUST GONNA GROOVE ONE OF OUR SIDE BRACKETS, ONE OF THE LONG BRACKETS.

AND THIS IS NICE.

YOU KNOW, IT HELPS.

THIS IS WHAT REALLY IMPORTANT AND THE PAYOFF HERE, BECAUSE YOU CAN USUALLY GET A BOARD THAT'S QUITE LONG.

I'M PLOWING THE GROOVE NOW HERE.

OOP.

OOP.

OOP.

OOP.

IS THAT THE RIGHT PLANE?

YES.

YES.

OK.

I'VE GOT TWO PLANES SET UP.

SORRY.

THIS ONE IS SET UP FOR THE SPLINE, A QUARTER-INCH SPLINE.

AND BY HAVING THESE LONG-GRAINED PIECES, WE'RE ABLE TO MAKE OUR BOARD WIDER, AND THAT'S VERY IMPORTANT FOR US, DO YOU SEE?

IT'S HARD TO GET THE WIDE BOARDS.

SO WE CAN COVER A 15-INCH BROAD SURFACE WITH A 10-INCH BOARD BY PUTTING 2-1/2-INCH BRACKETS ALL THE WAY AROUND IT.

SO I'VE WORKED THIS PLANE DOWN.

THIS IS A PLOW PLANE, AND IT'S GOT THE LITTLE CUTTER RIGHT DOWN IN THERE.

YOU CAN SEE THAT CUTTER, AND HERE'S THE DEPTH STOP.

SO THE CUTTER IS A QUARTER-INCH WIDE.

THE FENCE IS A QUARTER-INCH IN, AND THE DEPTH STOP IS SET FOR A QUARTER-INCH DEEP.

SO WHEN IT RIDES ON THAT DEPTH STOP, IT STOPS CUTTING.

SO YOU WON'T HEAR ANYTHING.

SEE?

NO SOUND AT ALL.

SO WE MAKE SURE THAT WE'RE DOWN ALL THE WAY.

OOP.

ALMOST.

THIS IS WHERE YOU ALWAYS GET CAUGHT.

ALL RIGHT.

VERY NICE.

ALL RIGHT.

SO, NOW THAT'S GONNA GET A SPLINE PUT INTO IT.

WE'RE GONNA DO, HOWEVER, THESE TONGUES...

IN, UH...

IN THE WOOD ITSELF.

SO THESE TONGUES ARE CUT IN HERE, THESE TENONS.

AND THIS STARTS AS A BROAD TENON NOW, ONE LONG, BROAD ONE, AND WE'LL WORK IT DOWN.

SO WE'VE GOT TO JUST CUT AWAY WOOD TO MAKE THOSE... MAKE IT THINNER RIGHT IN THERE.

SO, LET'S TAKE IT BACK AND GO TO THE... END VISE HERE ON THE END OF THE BENCH.

AND I MAKE SURE I'VE GOT MY UP SIDE UP.

AND I'M CLAMPING IT AND PUTTING WEIGHTS ON THE BACK END.

I'LL PUT SOME PLANES BACK HERE TO KEEP IT FROM LIFTING UP AS I PUSH DOWN WITH THE PLANE.

NOW, THE PLANE I'M GONNA USE FOR THIS IS, UH...

IT'S BEEN GIVING ME THE DICKENS BECAUSE WE'RE HAVING SUCH CHANGES IN THE WEATHER HERE.

BUT YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE PROBLEM COMES FROM.

THERE'S A LOT OF METAL PARTS.

HERE'S THE CUTTER, AGAIN SKEWED TO WORK ACROSS THE GRAIN.

HERE'S THE SPUR OR THE NICKER, AND I CAN TELL THAT NEEDS TO GO DOWN A LITTLE BIT MORE.

AND THE DEPTH STOP RIGHT HERE.

SO THESE ARE METAL PARTS THAT DO NOT EXPAND AND CONTRACT WITH HUMIDITY THAT ARE IN A WOODEN BODY THAT DOES EXPAND AND CONTRACT.

AND SO WE'VE HAD A LOT OF CHANGES IN THE WEATHER THAT HAVE GIVEN ME A TERRIBLE TIME WITH THIS PLANE.

LET'S SEE IF IT'S STILL ADJUSTED HERE.

UH, I'M PULLING BACK TO START THE CUT.

ALL RIGHT.

I WANT TO SAW THAT END RIGHT THERE.

THAT'S SOMETHING IMPORTANT I FORGOT.

RIGHT HERE, DID YOU HEAR THAT LITTLE SNIP?

IT BROKE AWAY A LITTLE BIT.

I'M GONNA CUT THAT ALL THE WAY DOWN.

SO I'LL CUT THIS WITH A SAW.

AND THERE'S NOTHING TO SAY YOU COULDN'T JUST SAW THE WHOLE DARN THING DOWN AND SPLIT IT OFF WITH A CHISEL.

ALL RIGHT.

NOW, THE THING IS, I'M GONNA START PLANING DOWN.

HOW DO I KNOW HOW DEEP TO GO?

I SHOULD NOT TRUST THE DEPTH GAUGE.

I WANT TO USE MY MARKING GAUGE HERE AND RUN IT DOWN THE END.

AGAIN, I'VE GOT THE FACE SIDE UP.

SO I RUN IT ALONG HERE AND...GOOD.

NOW I KNOW HOW DEEP TO GO FOR SURE.

I WOULDN'T TRUST THE, UH...PLANE.

I'M GONNA GIVE THAT ONE MORE LITTLE-- ONE MORE LITTLE TAP JUST TO REALLY ENGAGE THAT SPUR.

ALL RIGHT.

THERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT.

THE SPUR HAS TO CUT THE GRAIN BEFORE THE... IRON.

HA HA!

ALL RIGHT.

THAT'S COMING RIGHT DOWN.

SO I'LL GET THIS SIDE OVER HERE.

ALL RIGHT.

AND WE GOT A BIG BREAKOUT THERE, BUT I SAWED IT AHEAD OF TIME.

ALL RIGHT.

SO THAT'S ONE SIDE OF THE TONGUE THAT WE'RE GONNA CUT DOWN.

AND IT'S ALL TORN TO PIECES, BECAUSE THAT SPUR WAS NOT DEEP ENOUGH.

I'LL SHOW YOU ANOTHER WAY OF WORKING HERE THAT MAY BE A LITTLE MORE... YOU KNOW, ONE THING THAT SOLVES THAT, OF COURSE, IS USE AN ALL-METAL PLANE.

AND KEEP YOUR WOODEN ONES ADJUSTED ACCORDINGLY.

BUT AN ALL-METAL PLANE IS NOT GONNA HAVE THAT PROBLEM.

SO, I'M GONNA SET THIS HERE ON THE BENCH TOP, PUT THE WEIGHTS ON THE BACK, AND WE'LL DO IT IN TWO PARTS.

HERE IS A CUTTER.

SO THIS IS A CUTTING GAUGE, DO YOU SEE?

IT HAS THAT KNIFE.

AND I'LL JUST WORK IT ACROSS THE GRAIN.

SO THE WHOLE THING IS IS TO SEVER...

SEVER THE CROSSGRAIN AND THEN SCOOP OUT THE WOOD BEHIND.

AND AGAIN I'LL CUT WHERE THE LITTLE TONGUE IS.

AND AGAIN, NOTHING TO KEEP US FROM CUTTING THE WHOLE WAY DOWN, BUT WE CAN ALSO TAKE, SAY, ANOTHER PLOW PLANE OR THE SAME PLOW PLANE AND ADJUST IT TO RIDE JUST WITHIN THAT LITTLE KNIFE CUT AND MAKE A GROOVE DOWN TILL THE DEPTH STOP SAYS STOP.

AND YOU CAN SEE IT'S TERRIBLY SPLINTERED ON THE WASTE SIDE, BUT BECAUSE WE HAD THE KNIFE ON THIS SIDE, THAT SIDE IS VERY CLEAN.

NOW...

THIS DOES NOT DO THE WHOLE THING, DOES IT?

SO WHAT WE'LL DO IS, OF COURSE, TAKE A CHISEL AND SLIDE DOWN, OR WE COULD JUST SPLIT DOWN AND DO A SAW CUT.

SO THAT'S ROUGHED IN.

AND NOW WE'VE GOT A LITTLE TRACK, A LITTLE SHOULDER AND A REGULAR PLANE WITH THIS LITTLE BIT OF THE CASTING STILL HERE.

YOU SEE HOW THAT CASTING CAN RIDE IN THAT GROOVE RIGHT THERE?

ALL RIGHT.

SO THAT WILL RIDE DOWN THERE.

I'M GONNA GIVE IT A LITTLE MORE IRON.

OH, GOOD.

WELL, I THINK I'VE JUST DECIDED WHICH IS THE UNDERSIDE OF MY DESKTOP HERE.

SO WE'LL WORK THAT DOWN TO THE LINE.

ALL RIGHT.

SO NOW WE'VE GOT THIS ONE LONG TENON.

WE'LL SIMPLY LAY THAT OUT TO BE 3 TENONS NOW.

SO HAVE 3 TENONS.

ONE LONG ONE WOULD WEAKEN THAT BRACKET ON THE END TOO MUCH, THE CLAMP ITSELF, AND SO WE'LL USE-- AND I DON'T KNOW WHICH SIDE IS WORSE TO LOOK AT.

LET'S LOOK AT THIS SIDE HERE.

OK. WE'LL DO THIS SIDE.

I'M GONNA LOOK AT IT FROM THIS SIDE BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA TAKE THE MORTISES OFF OF THE TENONS THIS TIME.

SO I'LL TAKE MY LITTLE TRY SQUARE HERE, AND I WANT A LITTLE SAW.

AND WE WANT TO TAKE OFF THAT LITTLE LIP RIGHT HERE WHERE THE GROOVE WAS PLOWED ON THE LONG GRAIN.

CAN WE DO THAT?

VERY, VERY BRITTLE PINE.

VERY BRITTLE PINE.

SO NOW LAY OUT THE TENONS AS WE NEED.

WE'VE GOT THAT ONE.

WE'VE GOT ONE AT THIS END.

AND I NEED TO TAKE OFF THAT LITTLE BRACKET THERE.

NOW, YOU SEE HOW EASY IT WOULD BE TO FORGET REMOVING THAT LITTLE WOOD RIGHT THERE IF YOU HAD NOT PLOWED THE GROOVES FIRST.

YOU'D THINK THAT YOU HAD THESE FULL-SIZED TENONS.

THERE WE GO.

THERE'S ONE LINE.

I'LL DO THE OTHER ONE DOWN HERE AND THEN JUST SET THIS IN THE MIDDLE BY EYE.

AND I KNOW I USED A QUARTER-INCH IRON, TO PLOW THIS.

SO THE REMAINING WOOD DOWN THERE IS WHAT WILL BE OUR LITTLE SHOULDER THAT KEEPS THIS TOGETHER.

SO WE JUST CUT THEM APART.

HMM... ALL RIGHT.

AND THEN WE'LL WORK OUR WAY DOWN WITH THE COPING SAW.

NOW, I'VE BEEN VERY CAVALIER WITH THOSE LAYOUT LINES, BUT AGAIN, THE MORTISE IS GONNA BE CUT TO MATCH THEM.

WE'LL LAY THEM ON, AND THEY WILL BE THE TEMPLATES FOR THE... NOW WE'LL CUT IT.

DOWN TO THE LINE.

AND LET'S CUT THIS ONE.

DOWN TO THE LINE.

ALL RIGHT.

AND THEN WE COULD COME BACK WITH OUR COPING SAW.

YOU CAN SEE I HAVE TO SET IT TO SKEW THE OTHER WAY TO CUT BACK...

INTO THE CORNER.

ALL RIGHT.

SO THAT'S GONNA GIVE US 3 TENONS PLUS THIS LITTLE FILLET RIGHT THERE, THAT KEEPS EVERYTHING FROM TWISTING.

SO NOW WE'LL TAKE THAT AND USE IT TO LAY OUT OUR MORTISES.

NOW, HERE'S A CHANGE I'M DOING IN THE WAY YOU NORMALLY WORK.

GENERALLY WHAT WE WOULD DO IS TAKE A...

THE PIECE THAT'S GONNA BE THE END BRACKET AND TRANSFER-- I'M GONNA TURN THIS AROUND BECAUSE THAT'S THE FACE SIDE, AND I WANT TO WORK WITH THAT UP.

I WOULD GET IN THE MIDDLE OF THIS BOARD, TRANSFER THESE LINES... ALL RIGHT.

AND GET THE SAME MORTISING GAUGE THAT I USED BEFORE.

SO I'VE GOT LINES ACROSS NOW.

AND WAY BACK HERE ON THE BENCH I'VE GOT MY MORTISING GAUGE, AND HERE, FROM THE FACE SIDE-- THAT ONE'S CRITICAL--LAY OUT THE WIDTH OF THESE MORTISES.

ALL RIGHT.

THEN WE CHOP THESE MORTISES WITH OUR CHISEL, WHICH EXACTLY MATCHES THE THICKNESS THAT WE HAVE SET OUT.

AND THEN FINALLY, PLOW A GROOVE DOWN THE LENGTH OF IT SUCH AS WE HAVE HERE.

NOW, IF YOU LOOK, I'VE GOT THE MORTISES DOWN IN THERE AND THE GROOVE PLOWED THROUGH THEM.

BUT WHAT I'VE FOUND, THAT'S GENERALLY THE WAY YOU DO IT.

YOU PLOW THE GROOVE AFTERWARDS.

BUT I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND WORK ON THIS ONE.

I HAVE ALREADY PLOWED THE GROOVE, AND I THINK, WITH THIS PLOW PLANE-- AND YOU MAY FIND THE SAME THING-- THESE ARE BIG MORTISES, AND NORMALLY YOU DO JUST PLOW RIGHT THROUGH THEM WITH THIS, BUT THIS HAS SUCH SMALL PARTS IN THERE, THEY TEND TO DROP IN AND GET CAUGHT, AND THE DEPTH STOP GETS KNOCKED, AND SO THIS ONE GETS A LITTLE HARD WHEN IT GOES INTO THESE DEEP HOLES IN OUR CLAMPS ON THE SIDE, THOSE MORTISES.

SO I'M GONNA MORTISE DOWN IN THE HOLE ITSELF.

I'LL TAKE THE HOLDFAST AND LOCK IT ALL DOWN.

I'VE GOT MY MALLET.

WHAT COULD BE BETTER?

ALL RIGHT.

AND WE'LL WORK WITH OUR CHISEL DOWN IN THE ACTUAL POCKET ITSELF.

AND IT'S FINE.

OFTEN, WHEN YOU'RE DOING DOOR AND WINDOW WORK, THE GROOVE OR WHATEVER...

HERE, THIS GROOVE IS SMALLER THAN WHAT YOU ARE OPENING FOR A MORTISE.

AND IF YOU DID THIS SECOND, AS I'M DOING NOW, POST-GROOVAGE...

THIS BIGGER CHISEL GOING INTO THAT SPOT WOULD INDEED GET-- HA HA--WEDGED IN THERE.

AND BUST THE DARN THING ALL THE WAY APART.

SO WE'D BREAK THIS THING OPEN IF WE DID IT THAT WAY.

NOW, ANOTHER THING WE GET TO DO-- NOW, I WANT TO SAY THAT THERE IS NO PRYING IN WOODWORKING.

BUT IN THIS CASE, WE CAN PRY BECAUSE OUR SHOULDERS OF THE MORTISE ARE CONCEALED WAY WITHIN THERE, SO WE CAN PRY OUT AGAINST OUR END WALLS THE WOOD IN QUESTION.

SO JUST CHOP DOWN WITH OUR BIG, HEAVY MORTISING CHISEL.

AND WE'RE GONNA LEAVE A LITTLE BIT OF ROOM, AND WE LEAVE A LITTLE BIT OF ROOM ON ALL SIDES SO THAT THAT BIG, WIDE 10-INCH BOARD CAN MOVE A LITTLE BIT WITHIN THESE TENONS.

THIS BRACKET'S MAIN JOB IS TO HOLD THE WOOD FROM WARPING AND CUPPING, BUT THAT BROAD BOARD IS STILL GOING TO WANT TO TRAVEL IN WIDTH.

ALL RIGHT.

SO I'M FINISHING UP-- AND YOU CAN SEE, I'M JUST VERY SYSTEMATICALLY WALKING ALONG, AN EIGHTH OF AN INCH AT A TIME, JUST CHOPPING STRAIGHT DOWN, AND THIS IS IT.

THAT'S DONE.

NOW I'M GONNA JUST SEE IF IT FIT.

I'VE GOT THE OTHER TWO READY.

I MAY NEED TO DO JUST A LITTLE BIT OF TRIMMING, AND IF IT FITS, WE'LL BE ABLE TO FIND THE MITER AND CARRY ON WITH THE END GRAIN AND PUT IN OUR SPLINES.

YES, SIR.

ALL RIGHT.

ALL RIGHT.

SO THERE'S OUR MORTISE CHOPPED, I HOPE, TO THE FULL DEPTH AND TO THE FULL WIDTH THAT IT NEEDS.

YOU'LL SEE DOWN IN THERE, IT'S...AH, THERE IT GOES.

OK.

SO THAT'S CUT WITHIN THE GROOVE.

AND THAT'S NOT THE ORDINARY WAY WE WORK.

BUT WE'LL SEE NOW IF IT FITS.

I'M GONNA GO TO THIS END HERE AND SET IT UP.

WE'LL SEE IF WE CAN GET A GOOD FIT.

AND I HAVE TO LOOK AND SEE THAT I'VE GOT MY FACE SIDES.

ALL RIGHT.

FACE SIDE TOWARDS ME.

GREAT.

ALL RIGHT.

SO WILL IT FIT?

WILL IT FIT?

ALL RIGHT.

AND WE'LL TAP IT DOWN.

[TAPPING] ALL RIGHT.

VERY NICE.

NOW, YOU SEE, I'VE ALREADY MITERED THIS SIDE.

WE'VE GOT TO NOW MITER THIS SIDE HERE.

SO WE'RE GONNA FIND THAT SPOT.

AND I WANT TO SHOW YOU SOMETHING HERE NOW.

THIS IS WHERE A GREAT ADVANTAGE TO THIS LIES.

SEE HOW THE BRACKET, IT'S FLUSH ON TOP?

LOOK AT THAT.

IT'S NOT QUITE IN THERE ALL THE WAY YET, BUT STILL IT'S FLUSH ON TOP.

BUT IF YOU LOOK UNDERNEATH, THERE IS A GAP.

DO YOU SEE HOW THE FRAME STICKS BACK?

SO THIS WILL BE THE UNDERSIDE OF THE LID.

WE'RE ABLE TO SAVE WOOD BY USING ONE-INCH STOCK HERE BUT ONLY 3/4-INCH HERE.

AND THAT'S WHY WE HAVE THE TWO SYSTEMS OF GROOVES, ONE FOR THE TENONS AND FOR THE, UM...WHATEVER.

THE SPLINES.

ALL RIGHT.

SO ALL WE HAVE TO DO ONCE IT'S TEST-ASSEMBLED LIKE THIS IS MARK THIS SPOT.

I LIKE TO JUST PUT A LITTLE PENCIL LINE THERE TO SHOW US.

AND WE'LL TAKE THIS APART AND CUT THE MITER.

ALL RIGHT.

SO THAT MEANS WE GO TO THE MITER BOX AND SAW THAT OFF.

AND THEN WE'LL WORK DOWN THE END GRAIN.

NOW, THIS IS A NICE MITER BOX.

BUT I'VE GOT TO SWING IT THE OTHER WAY AND LOCK IT, GET IT UP HERE.

AND I'VE GOT TO LEAVE THAT PENCIL MARK.

THAT'S GOT TO JUST STAY THERE, BECAUSE I CAN ALWAYS CUT OFF THAT LAST LITTLE BIT IF IT NEEDS IT, BUT I'D RATHER ERR ON THE...ON THE FAT SIDE.

ALL RIGHT.

YEAH.

WONDERFUL.

OK.

SO WE'VE CUT THAT OFF AT A NICE MITER.

AND WE'VE GOT OUR TENONS CUT.

SO NOW ALL WE HAVE TO DO IS PUT IN THE SPLINE GROOVE.

SO THE SPLINE GROOVE IS ALIGNED WITH THE SPLINE IN THE SIDES.

SO THE SIDES ARE SPLINED.

THE ENDS ARE TENONED.

SO LET ME SEE IF I CAN STAND THIS UP.

THIS WILL BE A NICE WAY TO WORK.

I'VE GOT TO USE MY GAUGE THAT I HAVE SET TO A QUARTER-INCH.

AND AGAIN, I'M LOOKING FOR THE FACE SIDE.

SO I ALWAYS KEEP THIS FACE-SIDE ALIGNMENT.

OOPS.

FACE-SIDE ALIGNMENT THERE.

AND THAT GOES DOWN LIKE THAT.

ALL RIGHT.

AND WE'LL GET OUR CHISEL STARTED, TRY AND GET IT STARTED JUST RIGHT.

SO YOU CAN SEE THIS UPPER EDGE ALIGNS WITH THE GROOVE, BUT IT'S NARROWER.

[TAPPING] SO WORK THAT DOWN.

AND TRY AND KEEP THIS QUARTER-INCH MORTISING CHISEL STRAIGHT.

[TAPPING] AND GET A NICE START TO IT.

SO THIS IS...

THIS IS A VERY KEY THING, THIS GROOVE RIGHT HERE, I MEAN, LITERALLY.

WE'RE GOING TO PUT A KEY INTO IT, AND IT WILL LOCK THE MITERS TOGETHER, WITH GREAT STRENGTH, BOTH KEEPING THEM ALIGNED AND HOLDING THEM TOGETHER.

SO I'M TRYING TO GET JUST RIGHT ON THERE.

[TAPPING] WORKING WITH THE BEVEL DOWN UP TO HERE.

NOW MAYBE...

THERE WE ARE.

AND I WANT TO GET THIS A QUARTER-INCH DEEP.

SO I JUST GO DOWN.

I KNOW IT'S A QUARTER-INCH WIDE.

SO I'M JUST REALLY WATCHING UNTIL IT'S SQUARE ON THE ENDS.

ALL RIGHT.

LET ME SEE IF I'VE GOT THOSE ENDS OUT GOOD.

ALL RIGHT.

NOW I'VE GOT TO KIND OF CHOP RIGHT THERE.

AND BRING THEM OUT PRETTY CLOSE.

THIS IS A HOUSED SPLINE.

IT'S NOT GONNA SHOW ON THE OUTSIDE.

WE KEEP THIS SPLINE A SECRET AND LET IT DO ITS WORK.

SO I'M SIGHTING DOWN IT, AND IT DOES LOOK LIKE-- LET ME TILT IT UP SO YOU CAN SEE IT.

IT'S KIND OF COOL.

YOU SEE DOWN THAT SPLINE, IF I LOOK RIGHT DOWN IT, YOU CAN SEE THAT'S A QUARTER-INCH SLOT DOWN THE GRAIN THERE.

ISN'T THAT NICE?

ALL RIGHT.

SO NOW WE'RE READY TO JOIN ALL THESE PIECES UP.

WE'RE GONNA MITER BOTH ENDS.

WHAT I WOULD DO-- I'LL PUT IT RIGHT BACK ON HERE.

UM...GET MY FACE SIDE.

ALL RIGHT, THAT'S A FACE.

HERE'S A FACE.

SEE, EVERYTHING IS FLAT ON THAT FACE PLANE.

SO WE WORK THIS DOWN.

ALL RIGHT.

PUT THIS ON.

NOW, IN...

IN THE WORK ORDER, WHAT WE WOULD DO, OF COURSE, IS GET THESE-- HA HA!

HAVE I GOT THIS RIGHT?

UH...YES.

OK. YEAH, SO WE GET THESE END ONES ON.

SO WE PUT THE END CLAMPS ON AND THEN RUN OUR LONG ONES IN BETWEEN THOSE TWO, BECAUSE, SEE, THOSE END ONES, WHEN THEY COME ON TIGHT, THEY'RE TIGHT, SO WE WOULD THEN MARK-- LET ME SEE IF I CAN REACH DOWN HERE.

WE THEN, AFTER HOLDING THESE TWO TOGETHER, JUST WRITE MARK RIGHT HERE.

AND SEE, THAT'S GONNA GIVE US OUR PIECE TO FIT IN THERE.

WE BEVEL THAT AND CUT A GROOVE FOR THE SPLINE IN THERE.

LET'S LOOK AT CUTTING THAT LONG SPLINE.

I'M GONNA USE OAK FOR THIS ONE.

AND I'VE GOT SOME QUARTER-INCH OAK, AND SOMEWHERE... OH, OK.

SO I'VE GOT TO USE THE CUTTING GAUGE, AND I'VE GOT TO RESET IT NOW FOR A HALF-INCH.

SO SET IT FOR A HALF.

ALL RIGHT.

AND SLICE DOWN THIS WAY.

SO USE THE CUTTING GAUGE TO SLICE THESE LONG PIECES.

THAT'S GONNA GIVE ME A SPLINE THAT WILL GO INTO THAT GROOVE.

ON THE ENDS, HOWEVER, ON THESE MITERS, WE USE CROSSGRAINS, SO WE CUT OFF A PIECE SO THE GRAIN IS GOING THE OTHER WAY.

AND THAT ALL GOES TOGETHER, AND WE HAVE LEARNED OUR LESSON.

WE NOW HAVE OUR TENONED, MITERED, CLAMPED JOINTS FOR OUR SCHOOLTEACHER'S STANDING DESK.

SO THERE YOU GO.

MAY THE GRAIN BE WITH YOU.

ROY UNDERHILL.

I'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.

SO LONG.

LEARN MORE ABOUT "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" AND TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING ON OUR WEBSITE.

YOU CAN FIND US ONLINE AT pbs.og.

MAJOR FUNDING FOR "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" IS PROVIDED BY... [THUNDER] [CAR HORN HONKING] WHEN THE UNEXPECTED HAPPENS, STATE FARM HAS THE TOOLS TO GET YOU TO A BETTER STATE.

PROUD SPONSOR OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

ROY UNDERHILL IS THE AUTHOR OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S GUIDE: WORKING WOOD WITH WEDGE AND EDGE," AS WELL AS OTHER BOOKS ON TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING, ALL PUBLISHED BY THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA PRESS AND AVAILABLE AT BOOKSTORES AND LIBRARIES.